皮革






现代用于皮革的工具


皮革或稱革，是指經鞣制等製革過程处理的动物皮肤，是一种服装和工艺材料。


二十世纪以来还用聚氨酯、聚氯乙烯等合成高分子制造外观模仿皮革的材料，称为“人造革”。因此来自动物的皮革也被称为“真皮”，与人造革相对。




目录






  • 1 分类


    • 1.1 按来源


    • 1.2 按用途


    • 1.3 按鞣制方法


    • 1.4 按质地




  • 2 现代文化中的皮革


  • 3 參見


  • 4 外在链接





分类



按来源


牛皮、水牛皮、猪皮、山羊皮、绵羊皮、羔羊皮、鹿皮、袋鼠皮、鸡皮、蛇皮、鸵鸟皮、鳄鱼皮、鱼皮等。



按用途


服装用革、鞋用革、皮包用革、鼓用革、沙发革、工业用革等。



按鞣制方法



  • 生革：剔除残存的软组织，浸于石灰水中，然后撑开晾干而成。比进一步鞣制的皮革硬且脆，主要用于不需弯曲的部件，例如鼓皮。

  • 植物鞣革：使用含鞣酸的植物材料鞣制。质地柔软，呈棕色。但随时间会褪色；而且不耐水，水浸干后会缩水而且变得坚硬，又稱丹寧酸鞣或胚皮，面皮。

  • 矾鞣革：使用明矾等铝盐，加以胶合剂和面粉、蛋黄等蛋白质成分鞣制。质地不如植物鞣革柔软，而且在水中会烂掉。

  • 熟革是在热水或热蜡等液体中处理使之坚硬的植物鞣革产品。传统上用来做盔甲和书籍装订。

  • 铬鞣革：1858年发明，使用硫酸铬等铬盐鞣制。比植物鞣革柔软，褪色和缩水程度都小，并且便于染色。

  • 脑鞣革：用乳化的脂肪（例如动物的脑组织）鞣制。非常柔软，而且耐水。


鞣制之后的皮革可以通过上油来增加柔软和耐水性。使用过程中定期上油（例如貂油）通过补充不断损失的油性来达到保养皮革的目的。



按质地



  • 全粒面皮革是指未经人工磨去暇疵的皮革。这类皮革的质量最高。未经损伤的天然皮纹导致其耐久性、透气性最好。

  • 修正粒面皮革是表面的皮纹被磨光的皮革，比全粒面皮革的质量要差。一般表面涂漆、烫花来掩饰无皮纹的缺陷。

  • 起毛皮革（suede），又称反毛皮革，是将皮革从中间剖开而造成毛绒表面。因为厚度只有修正粒面皮革的1/2以下，起毛皮革质地更不结实。有些时候厂家把起毛皮革表面上胶，压出皮纹来模仿全粒面皮革的外观，例如称作Latigo的品牌。

  • 漆皮革（patent leather） 表面有闪亮的光滑涂层，现在多为塑料涂层。

  • 鲨革（Shagreen）

  • 鹿绒皮（buckskin）





马拉喀什的鞣制皮革




皮鞋



现代文化中的皮革


有些恋物癖者对皮革本身或者穿戴皮革者发生性迷恋。


一些摇滚乐队，尤其是重金属音乐乐手以穿戴皮革服装而著名。


当代很多车辆座椅使用皮革或可搭配皮革表面。
很多纯素食主义者和动物权利活动者认为现代社会中穿戴其他动物的皮肤是无必要而且野蛮的行为，因而抵制皮革制品，而當今已有人工合成皮革取代取自動物皮膚的真皮。



參見


  • 皮草


外在链接






维基共享资源中相关的多媒体资源：皮革

  • How to Tan Rabbit Hides by Mother Earth News


  • Chromium tanning process

  • SOBDEALL





规范控制


  • AAT: 300011845

  • BNF: cb119766770 (data)

  • GND: 4034974-3

  • LCCN: sh85075573

  • NARA: 10637881

  • NDL: 00563164



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